San Francisco packs more character per square mile than cities twice its size. The cable cars function as transit but tourists dominate; Muni buses and BART serve residents better and cheaper. Microclimates mean packing layers regardless of forecast — sunny downtown, foggy beaches, cold evening winds. Fisherman's Wharf exists for visitors; the Ferry Building farmers market feeds locals. Hills make walking harder but reward with views not visible from streets. Tech wealth distorted everything including restaurant prices and neighborhood character. Mission District taquerias serve superior burritos at half Chinatown tourist prices. Golden Gate Bridge walking remains free; cycling rents readily. Alcatraz requires booking weeks ahead or joining scalper-price tours. Haight-Ashbury's counterculture history hides beneath vintage shop tourism. Castro district maintains genuine community despite gentrification. Public transit remains safer than reputation suggests during daylight. Coffee culture rivals Seattle with micro-roasters in every neighborhood. Dim sum in Richmond and Sunset districts beats Chinatown for locals. Wine country day trips require designated drivers or organized tours. The fog has a name (Karl) and its own Twitter account.
